- DALI Dimmable Driver
- TRIAC Series
- Drivers 5-in-1
- DMX Series
- LED Power Amplifiers Series
- IP-BUS Control System
- 0-10V/1-10V Series
- Signal Converters Series
- Waterproof Series
- Wireless LED Controller
- Battery-less Wireless Series
- Microwave Motion Sensors
- Non Dimmable LED Drivers Series
- LED Linear Linghting
vhs tape storage drive
ROM drive pop opens the front using a paper clip and a small screwdriver. This CD-
The ROM has 3 DC motors, one rotating CD, one opening and closing the drive door and one moving the reading head back and forth.
Deconstruct the drive by looking for screws and plastic snap.
Look for a motor that works fine.
In this mode, the drive train used to open the drive tray is very good.
It has a narrow plastic section and all the gears are mounted in a row.
Cut the motor and gear from CD with Dremel tool with cutting wheelROM drive.
Take apart the VHS tape and there are usually 4 or 5 screws at the bottom of the tape.
After that, the top should fall off.
Then you will see two reels with tape that is miles long.
I solved the small one with my hand and spent my life.
With the help of the drill, the larger reels were unwound. :)
If I notice that the transparent part of the reel has just been locked in place by a simple rotation, I may slide down from the tape. :(
You need to open the case of the USB thumb drive.
This Kingston drive is easy to open.
When one side is free, the other side is almost open.
You have to look for LED when the drive electronics is exposed.
In a small device like this, it will be surface mounted, so it may be a bit hard to find.
Look for a clear device, but if you still can\'t find it, just plug it in and find it that way.
Once you find the LED, you need to track where it is controlled.
The traces are also small, so you might want to make things easier with a magnifying glass.
Take a look at the picture of my fluke multimeter lead tip next to the LED.
It\'s hard to measure traces with it because it seems to be as good as my thumb, but eventually I found something.
It turns out that R3 is the current limiting resistor of the LED.
You need to weld the wire to a USB positive, negative connection.
For information, check this USB pin page or just measure the external pin to determine the polarity.
Some helpers will make it easier to weld the connection.
I suggest using some helper with built-in magnifying glass.
The third connection you need to weld is the LED output identified in the last step.
Here is a warning that I welded the surface mounting resistor to access the signal and it worked fine but broke in a few minutes.
Even if the specification of the wire is small, it has enough leverage to pull the solder and pad out of the surface mounting equipment.
I had to scrape the welding mask from the trace and then weld again.
Once I confirm that it is working, I pour hot glue over the whole device to make sure that there is no more pressure on any connection.
The control circuit is very simple for this device and the number of diodes displayed may need to be adjusted.
The output of the driver\'s LED output does not change to zero, so the diode reduces some excess voltage so that the circuit does not turn on until the driver\'s output is actually turned on.
1000 uF cover for smooth flashing drive LED output.
The circuit can still work without the lid, but the led and opportunity are pulsed.
I first tested the circuit concept on the breadboard to make sure it worked before making the permanent perf board version.
The part position is very compact due to the limited space of the case (
If you want everything to be hidden).
I used Dremel to carve a bunch of plastic ribs and shims from the inside of the tape case.
It is still very compact and can fit everything, but it does.
The board is also coated with hot glue to keep everything in place.
I don\'t want one of the wires to fall off after the board is hot glued in place.
Instead of using any heat shrink on the LED or motor wire, I fixed the thing in place with some heat glue and provided short circuit insulation.
Turning one of the tape reels with rubber bands, I had a lot of trouble with this because the slight tightness on the rubber bands would cause the reels to lean against the reel rails and stop turning.
It is very smooth to turn with your hands, but the belt is not good for yourself.
If I use a tighter belt to prevent slipping, it will obviously make the reels harder on the guide and still cause the binding.
The solution is to take one of the metal tape roller rails in the tape housing, use it to push the reels away from the rails and keep it spinning freely.
The roller guide has just slipped through a curved paper clip that is hot glued to the appropriate position.
By then, I think I should find a hot glue company to sponsor the project. :)
Now just need to screw the top back to the device and give it a try.
If the metal pressure plate puts too much pressure on the rotating reel, you may have to remove it.
It works without removing it, but after removing the pressure gauge it rotates better.