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- LED LINEAR LIGHTING
led upgrade for high wattage church pendant lights
One of the problems we face when Greening my historic church, Grace Episcopal of Mayford, looking for a high quality, energy-saving and dimmable alternative for the 300-watt incandescent lamps used in the pendants hung by our sanctuary.
The pendant was originally designed for a 500 W bulb with a Mughal base, but at some point before someone remembers using an adapter to a medium base and switching the bulb to 300 W
They didn\'t actually provide enough light, so we started looking for a solution.
We tried a lot of things, but nothing on the market could meet all of our needs except completely replacing all the lighting.
Then we came up with this upgrade kit and used it every Sunday and many days of the week for the last two years.
The basic solution is to use UL-
The lamp parts listed can make a special screw in the replacement, which uses 6 dimmable LED bulbs and comes with a custom fixture to replace the incandescent lamps of each 300 Watt.
We used a 60 w bulb, so we ended up using only about 120% of the light, but only 1/5 of the energy.
I want to thank Little Jim Pearson very much.
Someone who helped me design and make these upgrade kits.
Without his help, the project would not have had such a good result.
In addition, thanks to the green grant program of the Bishop Diocese of Massachusetts, which helped fund the purchase of 48 LED bulbs for churches.
Each fixture needs: tools needed: depending on the size of the Hang fixture, you may want to upgrade the kit larger or smaller than ours.
We finished after some experiments on the PVC prototype and our pipe length was 4 1/2 \"long and the lamp pole was 1 1/2\" long.
We also have to modify the coupling to get the safety attachment for the flange adapter, so we cut off the threaded part.
Drill 3 evenly spaced holes near one end of the pipe.
The diameter of the hole should be enough to insert the lamp rod, but you don\'t need to tap it because we will use nuts on both sides to fix it.
The drill press is very helpful in drilling into the round pipe, but if you are careful, it can be done with a hand drill.
As the material is very brittle, carefully drill two small holes on the adapter.
Mark the holes and drill into the top of the coupling to align with the holes in the adapter.
Carefully screw in the screws with your hands to make sure you don\'t tighten too much.
Make sure the wire is long enough to connect to the flange light adapter.
We ended up working from the bottom of the pipe and then pulled the wires and wire nuts to the top when we were all done.
Trim if your wire is too long, but make sure you have enough slack to connect everything.
Before inserting the poles, be sure to place the nuts on the poles and then the second one not on the wires before connecting them together.
If you don\'t fix the light bar with a nut, you may find it easier to feed the wire nut through a pipe.
Connect the Lamp Adapter wire to the lamp socket wire with the wire nut.
Before connecting the pole, make sure the nut of the pole is on the wire.
White to white, black to black.
Carefully feed the wire nuts and wires through the pipe.
Connect the coupling to the end of the pipe and fix it with a fixing screw.
Make sure this piece is tight as it needs to support the weight of the fixture.
The problem of testing and identifying the lights on the ground is much easier when you stand on the top of the 14 feet ladder.
Make sure that each of the six sockets works as expected and that all nuts and fixing screws are safe.
If you do not have a lamp socket that you can easily test, use volt meter to make sure the Lamp Adapter is properly connected to the lamp socket.
We found that it would be easier to install if we first installed the first three bulbs and then screwed the adapter into the lamp holder.
Then we installed the remaining three balls at the bottom, which were easy to get in.
Replace the ball pump with LEDs, hopefully this will not happen for decades, you may need to unscrew the adapter from the fixture and remove it to easily replace the top bulb.
After we installed the upgrade kit, we found that the dimmer we had would flash occasionally under the lower led settings.
There are two hanging ornaments on each switch, which means we have 12 LED bulbs.
We were able to reach out to some of the engineers at Philips and were directed to certain dimmers, The Lutron MACL-153M-SW Maestro 150-Watt Multi-
Position CFL/LED digital dimmer.
After installing these, the flashing problem disappears.
Now that the LED is more common and the dimmer is more advanced, I suspect you can find other cheaper dimmers that work in parallel with a lot of LED bulbs.