convert your ir remote to rf remote

by:IPON LED     2020-05-17
In today\'s teaching I will show you how to use the universal RF module without a micro controller, which will eventually lead us to build a project in which, you can put the IR remote control of any device
The main advantage of converting the IR remote control to RF is that it is not necessary to point to the remote control before pressing the device work button.
Also, if you have a device that is not always within the range of remote controls, such as a home theater in the corner of the room, this RF remote will make your life easier.
Let\'s start.
These videos detail all the steps needed to build this project.
You can watch if you like visuals, but complete the next steps if you like text.
Also, please refer to the same video if you want to watch the project that is running.
RF modules: India---
Arduino:INDIA ---
ICs: India-encoder and decoder-Encoder --> ; Decoder --> -Encoder --> ; Decoder --
> TSOP infrared receiver-INDIA -(
Receiver and LED)-(
Receiver and LED)-
You need two ic if there is no micro controller.
They are called encoders and decoders.
They are basic circuit combinations.
The encoder has more input than output.
Looking at the truth table, we can see that these three output pins have different combinations for different states of the input pins.
Typically, the input and output pin of the encoder is defined as 2 ^ n × n, where \"n\" is the number of bits.
The decoders are exactly the opposite of the encoder, and they have Pin descriptions such as n x 2 n.
If you ask what happens if more than one pin gets higher at the same time, then I would say it is out of scope for this description.
The encoder and decoder ic we will use is HT12E and HT12D, the decoder is D, and the encoder is E.
Let\'s take a look at the pins of these ICs.
In HT12E, pin numbers 10, 11, 12, and 13 are data input pins, and pin 17 is the output pin, which we will modulation.
Pins 16 and 17 are used for internal RC oscillator, we have connected a resistor from 500 k to 1 M (I used 680k)
Through these pins
In fact, the resistance of the connection will be part of the RC oscillator.
Pin 14 is the send enable pin.
This is an effective low pin and the data is transmitted only if the pin remains low.
Pins 18 and 9 are Vcc and GND, respectively, and I\'ll talk about the remaining 8 pins later.
The decoder is a bit similar.
18 and 9 are power pins, 15 and 16 are internal oscillator pins, and a 33 k resistor is attached between them.
Pin 17 is an effective transmission pin for the IC, which gets higher whenever valid data is received.
Provide the modulation data to pin 15 and obtain the decoding parallel data from pins 10, 11, 12, and 13.
Now you will notice that the decoder IC also has 8 pins that we see in the encoder.
In fact, they play a very important role in maintaining transmission security.
These are called address setting pins and they ensure that the correct receiver receives the data sent in an environment where more than one pair exists.
If all of these pins remain low in the encoder, then to receive the data, all of these pins of the decoder must also remain low.
If 4 remain high and 4 remain low, the decoder address pin must also have the same configuration, then the receiver will receive only the data.
I will connect all the pins to the ground.
Do whatever you want.
In order to change the address on the go, the DIP switch is used, simply tap the button on it to connect the pin to high or low.
Enough theory for us to keep trying, actually you need two breadboards.
I went ahead and connected all the led using the circuit diagram for this step instead of Arduino, and the button replaced the switch with a 10 k drop down resistor. .
I used a separate power supply for both of them.
Once you have powered the transmitter, you will see the effective transmission pin getting higher indicating the connection is successful.
When I press any button on the transmitter side, the corresponding LED on the receiver side glows.
If I press multiple buttons, multiple LEDs will be turned on.
Please note the VT led, which flashes every time new data is received, which will be very helpful for the project we will be working on.
If your circuit is not working, you can easily debug by connecting the output of the encoder to the input of the decoder, everything must remain the same.
In this way, you can at least make sure that your ICs is connected properly with it.
If you change one of the address pins to high, you can see that all pins stop working.
To make it work again, you can either connect it back or change the same pin status on the other side to high.
So keep this in mind when designing something like this, because they are very important.
Now let\'s talk about infrared.
The front of each infrared remote control has an infrared led, pressing the button on the remote control, the led will light up, which can be seen in the camera, but cannot be seen with the naked eye.
But not so easy.
The receiver must be able to distinguish each button pressed on the remote so that it can perform the said function.
To do this, the led is lit in pulses with different parameters, and the manufacturer uses various protocols.
For more information, please refer to the link I provided.
As you may have guessed so far, we will mimic the IR code of the remote control.
To get started, we need infrared receivers like TSOP1338 and Arduino.
We will determine the hex code for each button to make them different from the other one.
Download and install two libraries with links provided.
Now, open IRrecvdump from the IRLib master examples folder and upload it to Arduino.
The first pin of the receiver is ground, the second pin is Vcc, and the third pin is output.
After connecting the power and output to pin 11, I turned on the serial monitor.
I point the infrared remote to the receiver and start pressing the button on it.
I pressed each button twice and after I finished all the required buttons I disconnected the Arduino.
Now look at the serial monitors and there will be a lot of garbage, but they are just stray light captured by the receiver that is too sensitive.
But the protocol will also be used, and the is hexadecimal code of the button you press.
That\'s what we want.
So I made a note with the name and their hex code because we need it later.
Link: How Remote IR works: Let\'s get our IR remote control, we \'ve identified the hex code for the button we\'re interested in.
Now, we\'re going to make two small boards, an RF transmitter with four buttons on it, which can be zero or one, which means that 16 combinations are possible. The other one has the receiver, it has some kind of controller, in my example is Arduino, it will explain the output from the decoder and control the IR led, ultimately, the device responds exactly the same to its own remote control.
Since there are 16 combinations that are possible, we can mimic up to 16 buttons for the remote control.
If the receiver on the device is not visible, open the IRSendDemo sketch from the library example and change the protocol and hexadecimal code accordingly.
I used the hex code for the power button.
Now connect the IR led with a 1 k resistor to the pin 3 of the Arduino and turn on the serial monitor.
So when you type any character in the serial monitor and press enter, the Arduino sends the data to the IR led and should make the device work properly.
Hover in different areas where you think the receiver can be, and eventually you will find the exact location of the receiver in your device (
Clear understanding reference video).
Using the same connection diagram, I built the two pcb needed and I used the separate Arduino instead of the Pro Mini as this is what I placed.
I want to test the connection again before installing the micro controller.
So I applied a 9 V voltage to the transmitter, applied a 5 V voltage to the receiver, and tested the function of the board using the LED, and quickly tested everything.
I also added a battery-saving power switch to the transmitter PCB.
Finally, after uploading the sketch, I fixed the Arduino in its position.
I weld the 1 k resistor directly to the cathode of the LED, and before using the GI sheet to glue it to the adapter I made for the home theater, I use the heat shrink, however, if you can use a 3d printer, you can easily build an adapter that looks more professional if needed.
I will also weld a long wire between the LED and the PCB so that it can be easily placed in a different place and hidden somewhere.
After all this is done, it\'s time to test its functionality and you can see its functionality in the video I embed step 1.
The best way to convert it to RF is that even if you\'re in another room, you don\'t have to point it directly to the device you can control, the only thing you need to care about is that the RF pair must be in range, that\'s all.
Finally, if you have a 3d printer, you can also print a small box for the transmitter section.
Let me know what you think about this project and if you have any suggestions or ideas, please share them in the comments below.
Consider joining our instructures and YouTube channel.
Thank you for reading and see you in the next Instructure.
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